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STYLE UNDER PRESSURE 
9 ways to crack the office dress code 
By Anna Johnson  
There is no such thing as morally neutral 
fashion and anyone who works in an 
office knows what he means. Success 
dressing in many ways is style under 
pressure.  
I honed my own professional dress code from many messy encounters with 
laddered stockings, low-cut blouses and one very strange canary-yellow linen 
suit bought in 1987. My manifesto for office fashion now is simplification. 
Deep down, we all know which clothes make us feel strong and baby pink 
angora sweaters are not on that list.  
Know the code  
Every office has an unspoken uniform. Secretaries in mini skirts and company 
directors in suits happen for a reason. The mini skirt conveys the freedom of a 
job with low responsibility and even lower mobility.  
To dress within the code of your office without feeling like a conformist 
drone means tweaking your personal style. At the office where I work, (an 
almost all-female publishing house) pencil skirts, pumps and little twin sets 
are the norm. Like wearing a school uniform, such deliberately egalitarian 
style levels out great wealth, great beauty or a great pair of legs. Having none 
of the above, I wear basic little sweaters and kilts in winter and a little less 
skin in summer with great relief. Dressing modestly sends out the message 
that you are at work to get the job done not to strut and preen. Puritan work 
ethic? Certainly, but a lot can be done in between a little white shirt and some 
navy blue shoes. 
Get serious 
The more intellectual or powerful your work environment, the more fashion 
fripperies are frowned upon. Chanel understood this principle and designed 
for women with work ethic accordingly. "Be a caterpillar by day and a 
butterfly by night,"' she answered, wearing her invisibly elegant little suits 
everyday. It is clothing that looks good but doesn't get in the way of what you 
have to do and what you have to say. If you need an eccentric expression 
siphon it into intense little accessories: a bright red handbag with a little black 
68
dress; silver Mary Janes with a navy blue pin-striped suit; Italian stockings 
under a perfectly sober shift. In a somber environment, a little spice goes a 
long way. 
Be consistent 
I once had a boss who would double take at least once a week and ask me my 
name. Dressed in disco-glitter eye shadow one day and starchy suit the next, I 
had a tendency to disappear inside my clothes, inviting people to ask, "Who's 
the new girl?" The eclectic work wardrobe might help you love Mondays, but 
it is downright disorienting to fuddy-duddy senior management. Unless you 
are a fashion stylist (who style-surf for a living), try to anchor yourself into a 
stable image: the most capable looking version of you. 
Own one great suit 
A suit you love is like armor. You slip it on and immediately feel ready for a 
bank manager, nasty memo or aggressive cold call session on a Monday 
morning. Buy a suit that is not too tight across the bosom or the hip. One with 
fabric that gives and doesn't crease after a whole day of sitting and one that 
can travel across seasons. When you buy the suit also snap up two blouses and 
a sweater that match, stretching one outfit into three. If you are allergic to 
formality, buy a gorgeous floral pin and stick it to your lapel. Natty dressing 
can still have whims.  
Dress three pay rises ahead 
Dressing a few tiers above your station is not pretentious, it's sensible. The 
only way bosses can imagine you in a more powerful position is to visualize 
you there. Give them a helping hand by looking sleek. Interns do this all the 
time, looking as if they are on salary even if they are wearing a very well 
ironed shirt from the Gap sale rack. Smart girls.  
Time Travel 
If contemporary work style leaves you cold why not pilfer from other eras? 
Hollywood always went to work in style. Try a silk tie and a waist coat ala 
"Annie Hall,", or steal a great pair of pants taken straight from Katherine 
Hepburns closet in "Woman of the Year." The standard convention of a skirt 
stuck at mid-calf and a little silk shell under a navy blue jacket with gold 
buttons reminds me of TV anchor women and air hostesses. If you don't 
actually perform those duties why dress that way? 
                       STYLE UNDER PRESSURE                                           dress; silver Mary Janes with a navy blue pin-striped suit; Italian stockings
                    9 ways to crack the office dress code                             under a perfectly sober shift. In a somber environment, a little spice goes a
                                      By Anna Johnson                                 long way.
                                      There is no such thing as morally neutral       Be consistent
                                      fashion and anyone who works in an              I once had a boss who would double take at least once a week and ask me my
                                      office knows what he means. Success             name. Dressed in disco-glitter eye shadow one day and starchy suit the next, I
                                      dressing in many ways is style under            had a tendency to disappear inside my clothes, inviting people to ask, "Who's
                                      pressure.                                       the new girl?" The eclectic work wardrobe might help you love Mondays, but
I honed my own professional dress code from many messy encounters with                it is downright disorienting to fuddy-duddy senior management. Unless you
laddered stockings, low-cut blouses and one very strange canary-yellow linen          are a fashion stylist (who style-surf for a living), try to anchor yourself into a
suit bought in 1987. My manifesto for office fashion now is simplification.           stable image: the most capable looking version of you.
Deep down, we all know which clothes make us feel strong and baby pink
angora sweaters are not on that list.                                                 Own one great suit
                                                                                      A suit you love is like armor. You slip it on and immediately feel ready for a
Know the code
                                                                                      bank manager, nasty memo or aggressive cold call session on a Monday
Every office has an unspoken uniform. Secretaries in mini skirts and company          morning. Buy a suit that is not too tight across the bosom or the hip. One with
directors in suits happen for a reason. The mini skirt conveys the freedom of a       fabric that gives and doesn't crease after a whole day of sitting and one that
job with low responsibility and even lower mobility.                                  can travel across seasons. When you buy the suit also snap up two blouses and
To dress within the code of your office without feeling like a conformist             a sweater that match, stretching one outfit into three. If you are allergic to
drone means tweaking your personal style. At the office where I work, (an             formality, buy a gorgeous floral pin and stick it to your lapel. Natty dressing
almost all-female publishing house) pencil skirts, pumps and little twin sets         can still have whims.
are the norm. Like wearing a school uniform, such deliberately egalitarian
style levels out great wealth, great beauty or a great pair of legs. Having none      Dress three pay rises ahead
of the above, I wear basic little sweaters and kilts in winter and a little less      Dressing a few tiers above your station is not pretentious, it's sensible. The
skin in summer with great relief. Dressing modestly sends out the message             only way bosses can imagine you in a more powerful position is to visualize
that you are at work to get the job done not to strut and preen. Puritan work         you there. Give them a helping hand by looking sleek. Interns do this all the
ethic? Certainly, but a lot can be done in between a little white shirt and some      time, looking as if they are on salary even if they are wearing a very well
navy blue shoes.                                                                      ironed shirt from the Gap sale rack. Smart girls.
Get serious                                                                           Time Travel
The more intellectual or powerful your work environment, the more fashion             If contemporary work style leaves you cold why not pilfer from other eras?
fripperies are frowned upon. Chanel understood this principle and designed            Hollywood always went to work in style. Try a silk tie and a waist coat ala
for women with work ethic accordingly. "Be a caterpillar by day and a                 "Annie Hall,", or steal a great pair of pants taken straight from Katherine
butterfly by night,"' she answered, wearing her invisibly elegant little suits        Hepburns closet in "Woman of the Year." The standard convention of a skirt
everyday. It is clothing that looks good but doesn't get in the way of what you       stuck at mid-calf and a little silk shell under a navy blue jacket with gold
have to do and what you have to say. If you need an eccentric expression              buttons reminds me of TV anchor women and air hostesses. If you don't
siphon it into intense little accessories: a bright red handbag with a little black   actually perform those duties why dress that way?
                                        67                                                                                   68
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