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67
STYLE UNDER PRESSURE
9 ways to crack the office dress code
By Anna Johnson
There is no such thing as morally neutral
fashion and anyone who works in an
office knows what he means. Success
dressing in many ways is style under
pressure.
I honed my own professional dress code from many messy encounters with
laddered stockings, low-cut blouses and one very strange canary-yellow linen
suit bought in 1987. My manifesto for office fashion now is simplification.
Deep down, we all know which clothes make us feel strong and baby pink
angora sweaters are not on that list.
Know the code
Every office has an unspoken uniform. Secretaries in mini skirts and company
directors in suits happen for a reason. The mini skirt conveys the freedom of a
job with low responsibility and even lower mobility.
To dress within the code of your office without feeling like a conformist
drone means tweaking your personal style. At the office where I work, (an
almost all-female publishing house) pencil skirts, pumps and little twin sets
are the norm. Like wearing a school uniform, such deliberately egalitarian
style levels out great wealth, great beauty or a great pair of legs. Having none
of the above, I wear basic little sweaters and kilts in winter and a little less
skin in summer with great relief. Dressing modestly sends out the message
that you are at work to get the job done not to strut and preen. Puritan work
ethic? Certainly, but a lot can be done in between a little white shirt and some
navy blue shoes.
Get serious
The more intellectual or powerful your work environment, the more fashion
fripperies are frowned upon. Chanel understood this principle and designed
for women with work ethic accordingly. "Be a caterpillar by day and a
butterfly by night,"' she answered, wearing her invisibly elegant little suits
everyday. It is clothing that looks good but doesn't get in the way of what you
have to do and what you have to say. If you need an eccentric expression
siphon it into intense little accessories: a bright red handbag with a little black
68
dress; silver Mary Janes with a navy blue pin-striped suit; Italian stockings
under a perfectly sober shift. In a somber environment, a little spice goes a
long way.
Be consistent
I once had a boss who would double take at least once a week and ask me my
name. Dressed in disco-glitter eye shadow one day and starchy suit the next, I
had a tendency to disappear inside my clothes, inviting people to ask, "Who's
the new girl?" The eclectic work wardrobe might help you love Mondays, but
it is downright disorienting to fuddy-duddy senior management. Unless you
are a fashion stylist (who style-surf for a living), try to anchor yourself into a
stable image: the most capable looking version of you.
Own one great suit
A suit you love is like armor. You slip it on and immediately feel ready for a
bank manager, nasty memo or aggressive cold call session on a Monday
morning. Buy a suit that is not too tight across the bosom or the hip. One with
fabric that gives and doesn't crease after a whole day of sitting and one that
can travel across seasons. When you buy the suit also snap up two blouses and
a sweater that match, stretching one outfit into three. If you are allergic to
formality, buy a gorgeous floral pin and stick it to your lapel. Natty dressing
can still have whims.
Dress three pay rises ahead
Dressing a few tiers above your station is not pretentious, it's sensible. The
only way bosses can imagine you in a more powerful position is to visualize
you there. Give them a helping hand by looking sleek. Interns do this all the
time, looking as if they are on salary even if they are wearing a very well
ironed shirt from the Gap sale rack. Smart girls.
Time Travel
If contemporary work style leaves you cold why not pilfer from other eras?
Hollywood always went to work in style. Try a silk tie and a waist coat ala
"Annie Hall,", or steal a great pair of pants taken straight from Katherine
Hepburns closet in "Woman of the Year." The standard convention of a skirt
stuck at mid-calf and a little silk shell under a navy blue jacket with gold
buttons reminds me of TV anchor women and air hostesses. If you don't
actually perform those duties why dress that way?
STYLE UNDER PRESSURE dress; silver Mary Janes with a navy blue pin-striped suit; Italian stockings 9 ways to crack the office dress code under a perfectly sober shift. In a somber environment, a little spice goes a By Anna Johnson long way. There is no such thing as morally neutral Be consistent fashion and anyone who works in an I once had a boss who would double take at least once a week and ask me my office knows what he means. Success name. Dressed in disco-glitter eye shadow one day and starchy suit the next, I dressing in many ways is style under had a tendency to disappear inside my clothes, inviting people to ask, "Who's pressure. the new girl?" The eclectic work wardrobe might help you love Mondays, but I honed my own professional dress code from many messy encounters with it is downright disorienting to fuddy-duddy senior management. Unless you laddered stockings, low-cut blouses and one very strange canary-yellow linen are a fashion stylist (who style-surf for a living), try to anchor yourself into a suit bought in 1987. My manifesto for office fashion now is simplification. stable image: the most capable looking version of you. Deep down, we all know which clothes make us feel strong and baby pink angora sweaters are not on that list. Own one great suit A suit you love is like armor. You slip it on and immediately feel ready for a Know the code bank manager, nasty memo or aggressive cold call session on a Monday Every office has an unspoken uniform. Secretaries in mini skirts and company morning. Buy a suit that is not too tight across the bosom or the hip. One with directors in suits happen for a reason. The mini skirt conveys the freedom of a fabric that gives and doesn't crease after a whole day of sitting and one that job with low responsibility and even lower mobility. can travel across seasons. When you buy the suit also snap up two blouses and To dress within the code of your office without feeling like a conformist a sweater that match, stretching one outfit into three. If you are allergic to drone means tweaking your personal style. At the office where I work, (an formality, buy a gorgeous floral pin and stick it to your lapel. Natty dressing almost all-female publishing house) pencil skirts, pumps and little twin sets can still have whims. are the norm. Like wearing a school uniform, such deliberately egalitarian style levels out great wealth, great beauty or a great pair of legs. Having none Dress three pay rises ahead of the above, I wear basic little sweaters and kilts in winter and a little less Dressing a few tiers above your station is not pretentious, it's sensible. The skin in summer with great relief. Dressing modestly sends out the message only way bosses can imagine you in a more powerful position is to visualize that you are at work to get the job done not to strut and preen. Puritan work you there. Give them a helping hand by looking sleek. Interns do this all the ethic? Certainly, but a lot can be done in between a little white shirt and some time, looking as if they are on salary even if they are wearing a very well navy blue shoes. ironed shirt from the Gap sale rack. Smart girls. Get serious Time Travel The more intellectual or powerful your work environment, the more fashion If contemporary work style leaves you cold why not pilfer from other eras? fripperies are frowned upon. Chanel understood this principle and designed Hollywood always went to work in style. Try a silk tie and a waist coat ala for women with work ethic accordingly. "Be a caterpillar by day and a "Annie Hall,", or steal a great pair of pants taken straight from Katherine butterfly by night,"' she answered, wearing her invisibly elegant little suits Hepburns closet in "Woman of the Year." The standard convention of a skirt everyday. It is clothing that looks good but doesn't get in the way of what you stuck at mid-calf and a little silk shell under a navy blue jacket with gold have to do and what you have to say. If you need an eccentric expression buttons reminds me of TV anchor women and air hostesses. If you don't siphon it into intense little accessories: a bright red handbag with a little black actually perform those duties why dress that way? 67 68
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