Reading and understanding newspapers. Пыж А.М. - 39 стр.

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One of my personal favourites is Boncuk, on Nevizade Sokak behind the
Balik Pazar in Beyoglu. Small and friendly, it serves an excellent selection of
Turkish dishes and a few Armenian specialities, too.
Above the entrance to the Misir Carsisi (spice bazaar) in Eminonu is
Pandeli's Restaurant. Serving classic Turkish food, this place, which is only
open at lunchtime, has been an Istanbul institution since Ottoman times. Its
decor alone - it is lined with the most gorgeous Iznik tiles - makes it worth a
visit.
Rejans (Emir Nevrut Sokak 17, Galatasaray, Beyoglu) was founded back
in the 1920s by white Russian émigrés and still serves some dishes from that
country. Not cheap, it is, however, one of the places favoured by the Istanbul
elite - some of whom, including Turkey's most famous author, Orhan Pamuk,
have their own seats.
Bars
There are so many, it's almost impossible to recommend anything.
However, my personal favourite is Kaktus on Imam Adnan Sokak (off Istiklal
Caddesi), Beyoglu. Small and friendly, Kaktus attracts a mixed clientele of
artists, writers and journalists. Great for people on their own and lovers of cats -
Kaktus cherishes its feline residents. Good food, too - particularly the cheese
platter.
Shopping
The Kapali Carsisi (grand bazaar) is great fun - so long as you can stand
the pace. I love it, but I prefer shopping for presents in the little alleyways
leading off from the Balik Pazar. Small shops selling spangly scarves, Turkish
slippers andjewellery proliferate. Cheaper than the bazaar, these little alleyways
also contain fascinating antique and "junk" shops where the vendors are quite
happy to let you sort through their piles of stuff for hours on end.
The Misir Carsisi (spice bazaar) specialises in food as well as other more
arcane items. Enormous black olives at roughly £2 a kilo are a particular
favourite. You can also purchase any spice your heart desires, lokum (Turkish
delight), Iranian caviar, numerous teas and aphrodisiacs fit, apparently, for a
sultan. Head out into the little streets around the Misir Carsisi and many of these
things may be purchased at an even more reasonable rate.
For books, in English as well as Turkish, go to the Sahaflar Carsisi (book
bazaar), which is beside the Beyazit Mosque, just a short walk from the grand
bazaar. A quiet, learned atmosphere pervades this little bazaar with its ancient
copies of the Holy Koran, exquisite 19th-century travelogues and novels in
every language one can imagine. It is said that many of the vendors are

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