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6th Baron Byron occasionally dres sed the part of the fop, and helped reintroduce the frilly,
lace-cuffed and collared "poet shirt," and had his portrait painted in Albanian costume.
A great dandy in the 1840s was Alfred Guillaume Gabrie l d'Ors ay, the Count d'Ors ay,
who had been a friend of Byron and moved in the highest London circles. The great dandy
of literature is the Scarlet Pimpernel, a fiction of 1905 set during the French Revolution.
In France the practice was known by the English word, as dandyisme. The dandy was
self-created. The poet Charles Baudelaire wrote that an aspiring dandy must have "no
profession other than elegance. . . no other status but that of cultivating the idea of beauty in
their own persons. . . . The dandy must aspire to be sublime without interruption; he must
live and sleep before a mirror." Jules Amйdйe Barbey d'Aurevilly wrote an ess ay on The
Anatomy of Dandyism, which was devoted in large measure to examining the career of Beau
Brummell. By their elaborate care as to their costume, French bohemian dandies, like their
less well dressed bohemian brethren, sought to convey their contempt for and superiority to
bourgeois society by their dress and way of life. It is little wonder that the French dandies
acquired a reputation for decadence. Their fancy-dress bohemianism became a major
influence on the Symbolist movement in French literature during the latter part of the
nineteenth century.
The dandy cultivated a skeptical reserve, to such extremes that the novelist George
Meredith, no dandy himself, was of the opinion that "Cynicism is intellectual dandyism."
The female equivalents of dandies must be looked for in the demi-monde. An
extravagant courtesan like Cora Pearl might be considered a female dandy.
The 1890s provided many suitably sheltered settings for dandyism: the poets Algernon
Swinburne and Oscar Wilde, Walter Pater, the American artist James McNeill Whistler,
Joris-Karl Huysmans, Max Beerbohm, Robert de Montesquieu, the dandy who inspired
Marcel Proust's Baron de Charlus. In Italy Gabriele d'Annunzio and Carlo Bugatti
exemplified the artistic bohemian dandyism at the turn of the 20th century. The 20th century
has had less patience with dandyism: the Prince of Wales, briefly Edward VIII was
something of a dandy, and it did not help his public appeal.
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