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TOOLS AND MATERIALS (I)
All the planning and preparation in the world isn't going to get you anywhere unless you have the, right
tools and materials to turn to. Here's a handy checklist that should see you through any of the projects I'm sug-
gesting here.
Tools. There are a fair few different tools mentioned in the course of this book. Some of them you're al-
most sure to have already, while some of them you may need to buy or hire in. The golden rule when buying
any new tool is always go for the best one you can sensibly afford. There will always be cheaper alternatives
available and there will always be very good reasons why those alternatives are cheaper in the first place. Un-
fortunately these are reasons that don't usually become apparent until you've got the tool home and started to
use it.
I won't bore you here with a list of every tool you might ever need, but I will mention a few items that are
worth investing in if you don't already have them.
A cordless drill/driver. Without doubt the single most pleasurable and important thing you will ever have
with you in the garden, unless you've got children. Even then, it's often a close-run thing. After all, how many
kids do you know that can drill holes through wood, masonry and metal then pop in another fitting and drive
home all manner of fixings from screws to bolts? All without any moaning and all without any need to be wired
to the mains by way of encouragement. A well-made, powerful drill/driver will help you fly through most of the
projects in this book and ensure that whatever you want to drill or fix is dispatched quickly and efficiently.
There are many types of product on the market, but ideally the one you want has at least a 12v motor,
though 14v is better and 18v is fantastic. Basically, the more powerful the motor the harder the material you can
drill though. If you're planning to drill into masonry
On a regular basis then get a drill/driver that has that has something called 'hammer action'. This doesn't
mean you can spin the thing around and use the handle to knock in nails – it's a little switch that will vibrate the
drill as it spins and punch into the hardest of concrete and stone Also, if you're going to use the thing as your
main screwdriver (and even if you don't think you are, believe me you will) then consider a drill/driver that has
a torque control. This nifty little collar around the chuck allows you to set the screwdriver bit so that it will spin
freely as soon as the screw has been driven firmly home – but just before you rip out all the slots on the head so
that you can never get the screw out again! Finally, twin speed is nice, slow for screwdriving and fast for drilling,
but not really essential. Cordless is definitely nice, but if it's a choice between a very low-powered cordless or a
mains-driven unit then I'd be tempted to go for the more powerful corded one and invest in an extension lead for
good measure.
Drill bits. There are different drill bits for different materials, and using the wrong one will quickly ruin
whichever one is fitted into the drill at the time. Some manufacturers now make drill bits that will tackle wood
and metal, but masonry always requires a drill bit all of its own. Get yourself a small set of whichever type you
need, so that you always have the right size (diameter) of drill bit to hand.
An expanding rule 'Measure twice, cut once' they say, but no one ever mentions that you need to measure
with something accurate and robust. A good metal rule, ideally about 5 metres (16ft) long, will never shrink or
stretch and always give you reliable measurements. It's best to get one with some kind of lock on the casing so
that you don't lose any fingers when the rule snaps back in unexpectedly.
A spirit level Make sure that the spirit level you buy has got at least two bubble tubes – one to tell you
when it's horizontal and another to tell you when it's vertical (or 'plumb' as we call it) You can buy spirit levels
over a metre in length, but I'd recommend buying a shorter one If it's not long enough for the job in hand you
can always place it on to a long straight wooden batten, but make sure the batten really is straight, otherwise all
the leveling in the world isn't going to save you .
A crosscut handsaw Yes, I know there are things called jigsaws and circular saws on sale nowadays, but
they aren't always what you need. A decent 'crosscut' handsaw (one that's designed to cut across the grain of the
wood, for shortening planks and the like) will always come in useful whenever there's timber to be cut. Look
for one that has the handle fitted at exactly 90 degrees to the blade, so that you can use it to mark right-angle
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